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Information
for hikers -
if you are planning
to walk around
Landmannalaugar
or stay there
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Real icelanders
from Westfjords
without makeup |
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Few
tips for visitors in Landmannalaugar
The
scheduled-bus from Reykjavík to Landmannalaugar leaves,
in the summertime, daily from the Bus Central Station, BSÍ
at 8:30. A two-ways-ticket cost 7.900 kr. in 2003.
Roads
on maps and roads in reality are not the same. There
is a way to reach Landmannalaugar by a normal car, but use
a 4-wheel-drive car to be sure. Normal car-rental-insurances
are not valid in the highland.
There
are 40 km. from Landmannalaugar to the nearest tank-station.
In most highland areas the distance is a lot longer than
that.
In
the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, you are not alloved to
camp everywhere. You may only do it at Landmannalaugar,
Landmannahellir and Hrafntinnusker. Don´t count on a tent-rent.
Bring your own tent. At those places are also huts. For
them you need a reservation. For Landmannahellir call 853
8407 or 893 8407. For Landmannalaugar and Hrafntinnusker
call 568 2533. A bit outside the reserve is the highland-motel
and tankstation Hrauneyjar (487 7782 or 487 7750).
In
Landmannalaugar you can buy food, local maps and more.
Be equipped for all kinds of weather before you enter
the highland.
There
is a horse-rent in Landmannalaugar. You don´t need
to bring equippments or skills for it. Guidet tours in
various lengths.
In
Landmannahellir and Landmannalaugar you can buy cheap
fishing-license for the mountain-lakes. You can rent
a fishing rod in Landmannalaugar, but you better bring your
own. Most of the time, you can buy fresh trout in the shop
in Landmannalaugar, but to be sure, you should order it
2 days in advance (minimum 1 kg.) in 854 0974 (from 1. July
to 31. August).
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Kort
fyrir göngufólk,
Map for hikers,
Karte für wanderer,
Carte pour marcheurs
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Parasites
again
7.10.2004
The
parasites in the pool were not as bad as last summer. The
first symthoms were seen at the end of the summer and as far
as we know, none of them was serious. Schientists do not
share opinions on how strong affects they can have on the human
body. One of them means that there might develope a species
which could affect the neurosystem in mammals (including humans). In
spite of the worried visitors from last year, the pool was used
by many bathers. Warning signs dit not hinder it, because
they came first at the end of August. |
Volunteers
Again
this summer the volunteer organisation BTVC did great things
in Landmannalaugar. Both entrees up to the lava Laugahraun
were made more accessible. The one above the hut has
been a common spot for accidents but with the skillfully put
stone steps, that should no longer be so. In a cooporation
with the local ranger, the volunteers marked some of the main
hiking trails in the surrounding area. They also made
an attempt to bring the Laugavegur hiking trail into better
condition, where there are big wounds after thousands of feet. |
Winter driving causes damage
Last
winter there was little snow in the highlands. That
didn´t fit well with the growing leasure of snow driving. Some
drivers have suffered from lack of estimations and/or common
sense. So many and deep wounds on earths surface in
this region have not been made for decades. And it can
take up to centurys for the earth to recover. |
Death
of a hiker
Even
though the summer was hot and nice, there are always some windy
and rainy days. One such day killed a young badly equipped
Israeli. A hutwarden tried to warn him but still he went
for the Laugavegur trail and did not even follow the sticks. When
he got lost he managed to call his sister in London. She
called Iceland, without knowing where exactly her brother was lost. He
died close to the hut in Hrafntinnusker. This was not
the only badly equipped tourist but what saved the others was
that they were willing to listen. |
The
false alarm
There
was a huge false alarm last summer, situated somewhere in the
southerly highlands. Twenty french tourists and their
icelandic guide were supposed to be sick and lost. An
enormous search took place. It cost a lot of money and
it also damaged land because the searchmen´s wehicles
went not only over roads. The Landmanna region was searched
high and low. Some stupid bypassers decided to consider
the wheelprints as roads. So in the end the false alarm
costed both loads of money and damaged land. |
Condition of roads
The
roads were bad this year. Water had carved some of the
rougher paths. The main roads in the highlands around
Landmannalaugar were full of holes and rills. When people
got injured in Landmannalaugar, it was not considered wise
to transport them on the bumpy roads. Twice or three
times a helicopter had to come instead of the ambulance van. The
few and pouring rainy days, togeather with the heavy traffic,
were the main cause for the holes but the roads didn´t
get any better either by hosting a rally contest. |
Rally
contest
Friday
20. of August there was a Rally contest on some mountain roads,
partly within the Fjallabak nature reserve area. The
sceduled bus and numerous other travellers had to wait, to
avoid being put into great danger. The tranquility,
the roads and in some cases the ground beside the roads were
spoiled. Four institutions are responsible for the permission
(environment, roads, law and order and local authorities). They
will reconsider their methots for the next summer. |
Wedding
at Landmannahellir
The
local ranger and a former hut warden got married by the cave
Landmannahellir (20 km. from Landmannalaugar, where they first
met). There was good weather, hundreds of people, loads
of speaches and plenty to eat and drink. In the end
there was fire, dance and firedance and the last drunkhards
went to sleep on a new day.
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Fishing
control
There
was a strict fishing control this summer, at the lakes of the
area. The permits are cheap, they are available both
in Landmannahellir and Landmannalaugar and the change of getting
fish is big. Still some people want to cheat on it. From
now on that is history. |
Weather
There
was good weather this summer. The summer started early
and showered the vegetation but was mostly dry in the touristic
time. Some exceptions caused bad roads and one dead
man. Fife days in a row the temperature in Landmannalaugar
reached 24 degrees and once 25 deg. Few days ago a sandstorm
terrorised the lower south country. Later we´ll
know if and how it affected the highlands.
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Hófsvað
The
big river Tungnaá has a ford, Hófsvað, which
can be crossed on big vehicles under certain circumstances and
with skills and great care. A group of adventurers did so,
this authumn and did it well. Don´t try this too.
07.11.2004
up
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15.05.2004 The
parasites in the pool
Last year, 2003, bathers in Landmannalaugar got itch from parasites.
We thought they (the parasites) would not survive the winter.
But since we wrote our old article, we have read more information
from the biologist Karl Skírnisson. He says that between
the time that the parasit´s eggs leave the nose of the
bird until it enters another bird or a human body, it dwells
in a snail. There it transforms from the egg-state. Living
in the snail in the hot water, the parasite can theoretically survive the
winter and wait for new birds to breed in. So possibly you
can suffer after a bath in the hot pool this summer.
15.05.04
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The
Highland-Questionnaire has been turned to a report
The survey, done in Landmannalaugar in summer 2003,
has been calculated into hundreds of conclusions. They are now
available on 80 pages of text and columns. The main text is only
in icelandic but all the comments of the participants are there
in original language (mainly english and partly icelandic and
german).
We, shopkeepers in Landmannalaugar and creators of this homepage,
also made this survey and it´s report on our own, without any
support except the one from the participants. There is no time
and energy left for translation, so if you want to read this,
you have to learn icelandic first. Since you probably don´t have
time and energy for that, we´ll give you some facts from the report
here:
People absolutely don´t want hotels to be built
in the highlands. Guesthouses and private huts also are not
popular. Picnic-tables and information-signs, on the other hand,
are wanted. Asphalt roads should stay in the flatland, or at
least outside of the Nature Reserve. Usually people find less
need to put human marks on the Nature Reserve than on other parts
of the highland. Icelanders are much more willing to build
all kinds of stuff in the mountains. In general they have
more opinions, positive and negative, than the foreign visitors.
So do the people who have travelled the most in the highland.
Mostly they disagree with too much structures. Women are a bit
less likely than men to demand more "civilisation" up there.
So are passangers of the sceduled bus. They seem to make a good
difference between Nature Reserve and other highland parts. Actually
a lot of people don´t know well, what, where and how big this
Reserve is. Generally power-stations are not popular. Steam-power
plants are best acceptet but the power-lines seem to be hated
by all kinds of people.
If you are fond of statistics and want to practice your icelandic,
we can send this report to you. Then you send us a lot of money.
It costs 7000 IKR (it´s about 83 Euro).
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Torfajökull
for electricity?
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The
Icelanders have started valuing land before they turn it into
power-station-fields. Now the first part is finished. It includes
the places in the highland, where energy-gaining could be possible.
The geo-thermal-active Torfajökull-area
is one of those places. This area includes Landmannalaugar,
Hrafntinnusker and Reykjadalir. Four committies deal vith the
valuation. The first one values the nature in it´s broadest sence.
The second values the importance for human outdoor activity.
Of course these committies found the area of high importance.
The third committie tried to calculate what would bring the society
more money and work, power station or not, but they didn´t come
to a conclusion. The fourth committie values how much energy
there is. They say it´s a lot but don´t know how much. It seems
that the area will be spared for the next years, at least. A neighbour
area, Markarfljót (by half of the Laugarvegur-trail, closer to
Ţórsmörk), was also valued. It was a total agreement that it
should be spared. In every case the sacrifice would be bigger
than the winnings. Another neighbour
area, on the other hand, is likely to be activated for the purpose
of electricity. Then Skaftá would be let to the lake Langisjór,
which then becomes a reservoir for the power-stations in Tungnaá.
A new hydro-electrical Plant would be addet to that chain, up
by Langisjór.
osk 15.12.03
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The roads
Maybe the roads were not better than in resent years, but there
was a lot of mending and building to ensure safer transpassing.
Dangerous curves and hills were unsharpened, pipes were put under
the road at a place where the water often cuts it and one fort
was made easyer. The same workers also took care of mending the
dams, protecting the camping area, but they had been damaged by
violent floods in the rivers. This was all properly done, with
respect for the environment. Then there was another team, supposed
to plane the road but just made it worse. The tractor broke down,
was left in a spectakular landscape for some weeks and when they
finally came to get it, they ruined hundreds of square-meters
of soft earth with their machines. It is so important in such
a sensible surrounding, that sensible people can do the rough
jobs.
up
Ranger
The Fjallabak Nature Reserve is huge and open in all ends. Therefore
it is extreamely difficult to keep an eye on that it´s visitors
respect it enough. Only one ranger is supposed to do so. In
addition, he also is responsible for informing the guests about
the land and it´s life. Fortunetaly the ranger, this summer was
very active and enthustiatic. His duty also was one or two weeks
longer than in resent years. Of course he realised that the "teachers-role"
was hopeless (with about 90.000 visitors pro summer). So he made
the message visible by closing forbidden tracks and marking allowed
paths. There are always some people who mistreat their surroundings.
Some got caught by this big and serious rangers and others were
reminded on good behaviour with rows of stones by the side of
the road. The weather
The spring came early. Two of the main entrances to Landmannalaugar
were opened a month earlyer than in an average year: the first
or second of june, which is a record. The melting was quick and
there was a lot of snow still in the very highest parts, so there
was much water. In a neighbour area it caused damage and in our
area it affected the traffic (cars got stuck in the rivers) and
the bathing (surface-water cooled the pool). Traffic and bathing
soon got better though, as the snow vanished.
The warm and wet summer was good for the vegetation. Never was
the area as green as in this summer. During our season, we counted
only 8 days totally dry in Landmannalaugar. But the totally
wet days were just as few.
In one place the vegetation suffered badly from the rain. It
happened in Landmannahellir, that it poured down 70 mm per hour!
This is as much as in one average month. The dry moss svallowed
the water but didn´t have the roots to hold such a weight. So
the green and even slopes of the mountain Sáta, flushed down.
This used to be the fairest of all green mountains but now it
reminds of a prisoners coat. An soil-lavina from Hellisfjall
momentary closed the eastern road to Landmannahellir...
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Parasites
in the pool
To many foreygn visitors came to the pool this summer. Those
who should have stayed at home, were maggots of snails, flewn
to the country with sick birds. They breed in the nose of their
victims, after travelling there through the nerv-system and the
brain. Fortunately mammal blood is fatal for them, which
means that as soon as they crawl under the human skin, they die.
This causes itching. The pool was closed in late August. Don´t
worry, it will be opened again next summer. Those creatures can´t
survive the cold air, so the winter will kill them (and already
has, when you read this). Let´s hope that the next summer
will be less hot and not giving those animals a temptation
to come again. Path-making
There have been some positive changings on the paths around Landmannalaugar.
A british volunteer organisation, BTCV, is mainly to be
thanked for that. They finished fixing the cirkle around the
Laugahraun-lava. It was skillfully made, so that it is hardly
noticable. Finally it is passable without crawling and climbing
and hundreds of extra paths have been closed, so the tramped down
moss has a chance to recover. Another great action was closing
the zick-zack wound above Landmannalaugar, in Suđur-Námur. A
decission had been made to let people up elsevere. In the comming
summer we will see if the carefully healed wounds can be closed.
This kind of mending was the first of it´s kind in the world.
Hikers are challanged to respect the prohibition of walking there
and use the new path instead. It is less steep and less harmful
for the vegetation.
There will be more path-markings in the coming years. Some long
distance-paths are on the drawing tables, but as so far, they
have only been talked about. There are so many beautyful possibilities
for the hikers, around Landmannalaugar. But as long as the trails
are badly marked, the traffic spoils the surrounding rapidly.
Please walk carefully. We, the makers of this homepage,
will make our contribution by making a useable hiking map of
the area. Incorrect maps have been making the situation even
worse.
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The new
signs for the Natur Reserve
When entering the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, people no longer have
to do it without noticing. There are new signs put by the 3 main
entrances. On them are maps of the area, showing where to camp
and which roads are allowed to drive. Unfortunatele there is
no distinction made between roads for general traffic and the
difficult ones. Anyway, travellers should have their own maps,
and they are hardly worse than these. There is a text in english,
explaining the main rules to be cept inside the Nature Reserve. The mew
hiking trail-map
Finally a detailed map with hiking-trails around Landmannalaugar
came to the market. An altitute-line is drawn by every 5 meters.
So almost every hill and hole are to be seen on the map. With
such a brilliant base, it was awfully pitty to notice, that the
hiking-trails were carelessly and sometimes incorrectly drawn
on the map. There are no distinguisses made between hard or easy
trails nor marked or unmarked ones. No text describes the trails
either. This map costs 1.000 kr. For those who have invested
in it and want to have it correct, they can come to the Fjallafang-info-bus
next summer to compare it with a map with corrections.
up
Diving
in the lake Höfđavatn
The highest lying lake in the area has been supposed to be without
fish. This summer it was prooved by a diver, who went there.
He found lots of other life, small water-insects and vegetation,
so that he hardly saw a meter around him. Observing the bottom
in such a poor sight is hard. The deepest spot he found was 6
meters. An attempt
to make a digital buisseness in Landmannalaugar
There are always more and more customers in the shop in Landmannalaugar
who think they can use their debet-cards. The shopkeepers tried
out tecnical equipments to see if it was possible. Th result
was negative. Maybe they will find out for the next summer how
payments can be gathered during the day and brought to the bank
by night, while driving through a spot with a telephone connection. Radio thelephone
for security
The huts from Landmannalaugar to Ţórsmörk have been equipped with
wireless telephone apparatus for people who need to be rescued.
People who manage to reach the hut get in direct connection with
an emergency line and get spotted immediately. Cooperation
by the police
The police in three counties in South Iceland is for the first
time having an internal contact, while looking after the highland-area.
The guardians of law and order have been more freequently seen
up there than in resent years, giving those a straight message,
who think that everything is allowed 400 m. above sea level.
No serious accidents happened during the summer, nor was any of
the crimes committed, reported. |
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23.10.03 In
contact again! |
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We
are on our way to the mountains. There has been little snow this
year, so there is a possibility that we open the shop in the middle
of June. 19.
05. 2003 |
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Pictures At
last we did it! Pictures are coming on the right place: photos
and paintings together. We will sort it better in autumn.
02.05.03 |
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The Laugavegur-hiking-trail streched out to the north-west The hiking-trails
from Skógar-Ţórsmörk-Landmannalaugar are being connected with
a new one, Hellismannaleiđ, leading through Landmannahellir and
Áfangagil, where there are both nice huts and campsides. It ends
(starts) by river Ţjórsá. This part will add even more to the
already variable landscapes and viewpoints of Icelands now longest
hiking-trail. Other plans
of marking hiking-trails (to the south-east) have been postponed. 15.04.03
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A new map
of hiking-trails around Landmannalaugar Finally an
exact map of the Landmannalaugar-area
has been made and will be avaible in the coming summer. There
are only 5 meters between the contour-lines. It will cost about
1.000 kr. The old and far less exact Nature reserve-maps are
still available in german and french for 50 kr. in Fjallafang´s
shop.
03.02.03 |
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Fresh arctic
charr For more than
a decade, there has been an attempt to reduce the overpopulation
of arctic charr in some of the lakes in the area. This project
will go on in the coming summer as well. When the fishermen catch
more than ordered for bigger groups (in telephone 854 09 74)
there will be fresh trout available in Fjallafang´s shop.
01.02.03 up
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Geothermal
powerplant in the mountains south of Landmannalaugar The
Landmannalaugar area, or being more exact, the Torfajökull-area, has enormous
geothermal activity. Icelands government has a tendency to gain
electric power on all costs. Ewen this area has been put on the
plan. Fortunately actions have been postponed and most people
agree that spots like Landmannalaugar themselves and Jökulgil
are to be left unspoiled for all times. But there are other close
places in danger, such as Reykjadalir.
30.01.03 |
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Pictures |
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